Why I want the Breitling Superocean

I've been looking for a dive watch for a while now, and naturally I started going through a lot of the options from different brands. The Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 is one I've kept seeing during my search. The more I've looked into it, the more I've found reasons both for and against buying one.

This also isn't really a review since I don't own the watch yet. It's more about why the Superocean has become one of my main choices, what's making me hesitate, and why after looking at plenty of alternatives I still keep coming back to it.

Why the Superocean

When I started looking for a dive watch, I wanted something that I could wear regularly while still feeling like a significant step up from the watches I currently own. There are plenty of dive watches that fit into that category, but the Superocean was one of the first that really stood out to me. I'm specifically interested in the 42mm version on the steel bracelet, which I think gives it the best overall look. I'd probably get the strap too though just in case.

Breitling in general also has an aesthetic that I've always liked. The Superocean might not have the best specifications compared to some other dive watches around the same price. However, the design is one of the main reasons I'm considering it in the first place. If I'm going to spend thousands on a watch, I'd rather get the one I actually like the most instead of choosing one just because it has better specifications.

The design

The design is easily the biggest reason I'm considering it. I really like the dial, especially the large hour markers and hands combined with the relatively simple layout. There's enough going on for it to look distinctive without making the dial feel overly complicated. I also prefer it considerably more on the steel bracelet than the rubber strap, even though both suit the watch pretty well.

The 42mm case is also around the size I prefer, and the overall design feels modern without looking like something that will age badly. It's recognisably a Breitling without having the same level of recognition as something like a Rolex. Out of all the dive watches I've looked at, the Superocean is still probably the one I like the most purely from looking at it.

The movement

This is where I started having some doubts. The Superocean uses the Breitling Calibre 17, which isn't an in house Breitling movement. When I first found this out, it made the price slightly harder to justify because part of me expected a watch this expensive to have something more unique inside it.

There are watches around the same price with arguably more interesting movements, which makes the Superocean harder to defend from a specifications point of view. At the same time, the movement isn't what made me want the watch in the first place. I started looking at it because I liked the design, and researching the movement has made me realise that I probably don't care about having an in house calibre as much as I thought I did.

The alternatives

Looking specifically at dive watches means there definitely isn't a shortage of alternatives. The Tudor Black Bay 58 is probably the strongest one I've considered because it has an in house movement, a great reputation and sits around a similar part of the market. I like the Black Bay, but I still prefer the more modern look of the Superocean.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is another alternative and probably the one I'd consider a step above mechanically. The Co Axial Master Chronometer movement is much more interesting to me than the Calibre 17, and the Seamaster is an iconic dive watch in its own right. I've also looked at cheaper options like the Longines HydroConquest, which makes the Superocean's price even harder to justify. There are alternatives which probably make more sense on paper, but so far none of them have stopped me wanting the Breitling.

Buying one second hand

Another thing I've noticed is how much the Superocean drops in price after being purchased new. The retail price is pretty difficult for me to justify, especially considering the movement, but I've found second hand examples on Chrono24 for significantly less. It's obviously not great if I was planning on buying one new and selling it a few years later, but as someone looking to buy second hand, the depreciation actually works a lot in my favour. The difference in price makes the Superocean much easier to justify and more competitive with some of the alternatives I've been considering.

Buying second hand obviously means I need to be more careful about what I'm actually getting. Things like scratches and wear are a pretty big risk factor. The bracelet is tha main thing because I want that version of the watch, so I'd also want to make sure all of the original links are included. There's more uncertainty compared to walking into Breitling and buying one new, but for the right price from a reputable seller, I think it's probably the way I'd go.

Is it worth it

The biggest difficulty with the Superocean is that there are so many good dive watches available at this price and below it. A Longines can offer a lot of what I'm looking for at a considerably lower price, while moving towards something like the Seamaster gives me a more impressive movement. The Superocean ends up sitting somewhere in the middle, which makes the price harder to justify purely from its specifications.

At the same time, buying a watch purely from a specification sheet doesn't make much sense to me. The design, finishing, brand, movement and how much I actually like wearing the watch all matter. The Calibre 17 still makes the retail price difficult for me to justify, but buying second hand changes that quite a bit. I'd rather not spend thousands on the sensible option and then continue looking at the Superocean anyway.

My take

The price and movement are probably the two biggest things holding me back, while almost everything else about the Superocean is what I'm looking for in a dive watch. I've looked at Tudor, Omega, Longines and plenty of other options in the process, but I always seem to end up back at the Breitling.

If I'm being honest with myself, I think it's probably more a matter of when I buy one rather than if I buy one. If I eventually do, I'll be able to write an actual review and see how it compares to everything I thought about it before owning one.